Mongolian Ger is ideally suited for the country’s extreme climate and the people’s nomadic way of life. It is a multipurpose dwelling that can be easily dismantled and transported to another place and put up again fully preserving its original shape. Being constantly on the move with herds of animals or being on military campaigns, compelled Mongols to build Ger on carts. The Ger has two components –the wooden framework and the felt cover. The wooden parts are the walls, the long poles the round smoke escape, and its supports. One wall consists of 10n and 15 wooden poles, each about 1.5m high, bound together in a way that makes it possible to fold it for transportation and then unfold like an accordion. The unfolded walls are connected to form a circle.
The long poles are fastened to the upper part of the walls, with the other end passing through the round support at the top of the Ger, making this the only window where smoke can ventilate from the Ger. Two posts prop up the round support. All forms the wooden framework of the Ger which resembles an open umbrella. Two layers of the felt ate then led on the roof and walls which are tied down with hair rope. The top of the Ger has a felt flap that can be drawn over the roof when the weather is bad. Inside the Ger, felt is laid either on a wooden floor or directly on the ground. The floor of the Ger always faces south towards the sun. The number of walls and poles determines the size of the Ger. Most herders’ Gers have five components of walls, which make a living area of 16-18sq. meters. Larger Gers can have up to 12 components walls. In the centre of the Ger is a fire place that has a special meaning for the Mongols. Apart from its utilitarian purpose, the hearth symbolizes ties with ancestors. There are several customs associated with the hearth. The fireplace is mounted on three stones, which symbolize the host, the hostess, and the daughter –in-law. It is the centre of the Ger and divides the Ger space into three conventional areas – the male and female quarters the side space. Desecration of the fireplace is a sin and an insult to the master of the house. The male quarters on the western side, here, the host keeps the saddle, the gorse bridle, and the kumis (airag) bag.

The female quirters are on the eastern side, where she keeps the kitchenware and appliances.

Accordingly, a man entering the Ger goes straight to the west side and a woman to the east side. It is believed that the male quarters are under the protection of heaven and the female quarters are protected by the sun. The most honoured place is the khoimor- the side space of the northern wall, house, opposite the door. Here, they keep objects dear to the master of the house: weapons, Morin Khuur (traditional music instrument) or the horse-fiddle-head.
Peaces of furniture, usually two bright orange wooden chests, are also placed in the khoimor-side space.

At this time of year the summer pastures in the Altai Mountains in western Mongolia are strewn with belongings, and there’s a steady trickle of baggage-laden camels, yaks and horses down the slopes.

Fall is fast approaching, and the Mongol and Kazakh herders who inhabit this land of craggy peaks, wide valleys and silver blue lakes are on the move, heading for lower pastures until winter sets in. Then they’ll be migrating again: these herders move four times a year, each season shifting to the places their nomadic forefathers have inhabited for generations.

At the moment they’re packing up their felt yurts— a ger to the Mongols, or a kiiz uy to the ethnic Kazakhs. Ethnic Kazakhs form a majority of the population of Mongolia’s westernmost district of Bayan-ulgii. They’re busy stowing their possessions onto pack animals, motorcycles and trucks and heading down the mountains to warmer climes.

Anything that doesn’t fit in the baggage train is left piled up on the summer pastures to be picked up later. In one spot, the top of a yurt with its elegantly crisscrossed wooden strands propped against some poles, and elsewhere a jumble of tables, milking stools, cooking pots and sheepskins awaits collection.

Some families have fenced off patches of land to grow grass to make hay on which the animals will survive through the cold months. The herds must be fed up in summer to store fat for the long, cold winter when grazing is hard to come by.

Summer’s a busy time for the herders. Some of the fattened up animals are slaughtered and the meat dried for consumption through the winter. The women busy themselves making yak and sheep cheese, which will feed the family through the colder months. Sheep are sheared and their wool pressed into felt, later to be made into decorated carpets for the yurt.

Each member of the family, with the exception of the very young, has a role to play in the laborious business of running the homestead, the men herding and slaughtering the animals, the women cooking supplies and milking the herds, the children collecting and drying dung for cooking and heating.

Life in these high and sometimes inhospitable mountains can be a battle against the elements. In mid-August a blizzard hit the valleys around the Tavan Bogd area, catching the herders and their animals by surprise. Many animals had been driven into the highest pastures far from the home base to take advantage of the best grass during the last weeks of summer, and their exposed positions caused some of the animals to perish. An unforeseen event like this can spell disaster for the nomadic families, who depend on their herds for survival.

The snowstorm also caught migratory birds by surprise. They scraped out little holes in the snow and huddled together for warmth, but the next morning the pastures — dazzling white in the bright sunlight — were strewn with avian corpses. After the animals have been brought down to lower ground for the fall and food stocks have been piled up for winter, the herders have a little time to relax. The major event of the season in Bayan-Ulgii is the annual eagle festival in early October, when Kazakh eagle hunters compete to show off the prowess of their birds. Tanatkan, a young hunter, proudly displays one of his golden eagles, which flaps its enormous wings alarmingly as it perches on his gloved arm. He hopes the six-year-old eagle may win a prize in the competition.

Not long after these festivities, the approach of winter prompts another migration. Before the snow grips the valleys, the herders and their animals will be on the move again, heading for lower pastures before the cold weather sets in with a vengeance.

Chinggis Khan Equestrian Statue,

Tsonjin Boldog, Mongolia

The infamous founder of the Mongolian Empire, known locally as Chinggis Khaan.

The 131-foot-tall, 250-ton stainless steel statue, unveiled in 2008 and located an hour’s drive from Ulaanbaatar, is the world’s largest equestrian statue. Visitors can take an elevator to the viewing deck on the horse’s head and look out on the expansive Mongolian steppe. Until 20 years ago, Mongolia’s Communist government banned any celebration of the military leader, but in a surge of nationalism, Mongols have slapped his image and name on everything from an airport to a university and bottles of vodka. The statue is part of a planned theme park featuring nomadic lodgings and restaurants serving horsemeat.

Here is some short practical information about Money

You won’t have to go far to change cash or travellers cheques, or get a cash advance on your credit card. Many banks in central Ulaanbaatar even offer 24-hour services. The bigger hotels also offer exchange services for their guests. Avoid changing money with street dealers at the markets: the rate is only slightly better than at official moneychangers and you run the risk of being cheated.

ATMs are popping up in many places including the lobbies of the Ulaanbaatar, Bayangol and Chinggis Khaan hotels, as well as department stores and supermarkets.

Both Golomt and Trade & Development Bank (T&D Bank) will allow you to receive money wired from abroad. It will cost the sender US$50 to wire any amount of money; there is no charge for receiving cash. For general information on money:-

Golomt Bank (330 436; 24hr) Around-the-clock banking services. Changing travellers cheques into tögrög carries a fee of 1.5%. You can get a cash advance with no commission on Visa or MasterCard. There are six branches around town, including Seoul St and just south of the corner of Juulchin Gudamj on Baga Toiruu.

Khan Bank (456 154; cnr Sambugiin Örgön Chölöö & Baga Toiruu; 24hr)

Mongol Shuudan Bank (310 103; Kholboochdiin Gudamj 4; 9am-1pm & 2-4pm Mon-Fri)

State Department Store (Peace Ave 44) Also has exchange booths.

Trade & Development Bank (T&D Bank; 327 095; 9am-4pm Mon-Fri) Travellers cheques are changed into tögrög with a 1% fee or into US dollars with a 2% fee. For foreigners, the place to do business is on the 2nd floor of the main branch on the corner of Juulchin Gudamj and Baga Toiruu. Here you also get a cash advance on your credit card; MasterCard carries a 4% commission, Amex and Visa are both commission-free. The bank will also replace lost Amex travellers cheques. A second branch is located on Peace Ave, opposite the Ulaanbaatar Hotel.

Valiut Ariljaa (Baga Toiruu west 8.30am-9pm) There are several exchange offices on this square, known by locals as Ard Kino. The exchange offices here have some of the best rates in town.

MONGOLIAN FOR BEGINNERS

Common words and sentences

Sentences

Proverbs

Conversation

 In short:

Trekking 40km by horseback, walking along the sand dunes of the little Gobi and navigating my way in a taxi without knowing a word of the Mongolian language has been an incredible life-changing experience. Having never travelled farther east of England than India I have been introduced into a whole new culture and lifestyle.

I chose the teaching project, and was stationed 2 days in a summer camp in the countryside and 2 days within Ulaanbaatar. I loved being able to see the real outdoors of Mongolia as well as living the more touristic lifestyle. The contrast was rather stark. Having never been a teacher my first lesson was incredibly nerve-raking however, the students were all very welcoming so I was made to feel at home. Initially I began with the basic lessons such as sports and travel however, in no time at all we were discussing the transition from communism to democracy and the seven wonders of the world! The students would also put on small presentations and shows for me. In one class, we played 'Mongolian Idol' and the students showed off their talents to the rest of the class. One of the boys played the 'murungkhor' (a traditional Mongolian musical instrument; similar to a violin), and was followed by a boy band singing Westlife hits.
 
I am now sadly in the the final week of my volunteer work. I have made some amazing friends here in UB who will be sorely missed; especially my Projects Abroad supervisor who enabled me to make Mongolia my home and also save me from a few tight situations! I will also miss my students who I interacted with on a day-to-day basis and hope that I made a positive impact on their lives because hey certainly changed mine for the better.
 
Thank you Projects Abroad!

Chandni Gupta

July 2009

Mongolia….What is the first thing that comes to your mind when you think about Mongolia?

Nomads; a vast landscape; wild animals maybe? That’s all true, but as I found out Mongolia has so much more to offer.

I came to Mongolia with an open mind, not knowing what I should expect. Soon after my arrival in Mongolia, a new world opened up to me.

I was pleasantly surprised about all the wonderful things I encountered during my monthly stay in Ulaanbaatar, the capital city. I made trips to the countryside where I had spent the night in the beautiful nature of Mongolia, visited monasteries and learned about Mongolian customs.

Projects Abroad accommodated me in a warm family and placed me in a work environment where I could really be of help.

The people in my host family and my co-workers did a lot of great things with me in order to make me feel welcome in Mongolia. I can tell you that they succeeded.

The family was very hospitable and as I grew to learn over my time in Mongolia, so were a lot of Mongolians. They opened up their home to me, making sure I was well fed and my glass was always full. I recommend to learn basic Mongolian words and sentences, the people really like it if you put an effort into learning about their culture. Mongolians are very proud of their heritage and culture. I lived with two sisters who were very outgoing and made sure I had seen the entire city before I left. My accommodation was located in a nice neighbourhood around 20 minutes walking from Sukhbaatar square, and because everyone with a car is a potential taxi driver, I could easily go around the city.

The company I worked for is a manufacturer of a specific chemical liniment for the auto and household usage in Mongolia, for example antifreeze.

My work consisted of finding and contacting manufacturers and suppliers of different types of raw chemicals all over Asia. Due to my knowledge of the English language and my educational background in logistics, I was able to help the company through speaking English with my colleagues and making the right contacts abroad. Every day I went to work eager to get started.

The guidance of Projects Abroad throughout my time in Ulaanbaatar was great. They made sure I wasn’t short of anything and contacted me regularly to check on how I was doing. Every Saturday Projects Abroad arranged for all the volunteers to meet with each other and do all sorts of fun activities.

After seeing all the tourist sites I really got to experience what it is like to live in Mongolia. I started an every day rhythm where I lived and worked with the local people. I enjoyed it very much as I experienced Mongolians to be very kind. 

I was only here for a month, but I enjoyed every minute of it.

Jeroen Klouwens

Business Internship

July-August 2010

Coming from Scotland I thought I was used to the freezing cold and had my fair share of interesting customs. However, nothing could have prepared me for the culture shock of Mongolia. The winter here is bitterly cold but almost always with a blue sky. I feel privileged to have seen the mountains surrounding Ulaanbaatar covered in snow and the Gobi's frosty morning sunrises. Mongolia is unlike any country I have ever visited. From the remoteness of the countryside spotted with the occasional Ger camp to the western-feeling Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia is a country where you feel as though you have travelled hundreds of years in a matter of miles. The traditional living of Ger families means that they are extremely welcoming; nowhere else in the world have I experienced such hospitality. Travelling through the Gobi and sleeping in a number of gers it always amazed me how willing a family were to give up their homes and beds to visitors, not that we took them! The smell of snuff, taste of Mongolian vodka and warmth of the Ger stove will forever remind me of the friendliness of Mongolians, despite their huge losses of livestock from the freezing winter. If you're visiting Mongolia you would be a fool to miss out on a Gobi tour. Mornings spent sliding down a frozen river, watching eagles hunting and locals wrestling provided me with some of my most memorable moments. Experiencing a Ger for the night is a must; it is the only way to fully understand Mongolian customs away from the bustling capital city.

Coming out of the Gobi and going to work at BTV, one of the country's newest business news channels, was almost as big a culture shock as leaving home. On the 15th floor of a modern looking tower block, owned by a sumo wrestler, the channel hosts its daily news broadcasts and topical chat shows. As a British journalist I came prepared for the screaming and shouting of stressed out news editors and grumpy journalists battling for stories. However, much like in the Mongolian countryside, the pace of life is slower than in the west. That doesn't mean things don't get done. The station runs like clockwork, with very much a team atmosphere. News broadcasts look polished and professional and the standard of journalism is high. Things work very differently from the UK and for some reason without the stress. It took some getting used to, going out as a large group of journalists and cameramen, attending each other’s stories together then returning to edit. At home this would have the editor screeching until he was blue in the face; in the UK you fly solo. I'm not sure which I prefer.

The opportunity to anchor the news is much easier to come by here in Mongolia and for that I am extremely grateful. Struggling to organise my show reel back home, something that is vital in this industry, I had begun to despair. But the willingness of my Mongolian colleagues to let me get in front of the camera was truly excellent. Now, 1 month on

I have been reading the English spoken B-spot business news every evening and my show reel is certainly in for an upgrade! Perhaps I can take a little of the Mongolian approach to journalism back home to the UK and I hope that some of my ideas and techniques will have helped here. In terms of my career, this month has been extremely beneficial, interesting and thought provoking. And in terms of life experience it has been un-missable; an opportunity to learn and appreciate a way of life completely different to my own. I have always wanted to visit Mongolia and now that I have I am not disappointed.

 Laura Mclean, March-April 2010.

Southgobi – Umnugobi Province

The Mongolian government established the Great Gobi National Park in 1975 and  UNESCO designated the Great Gobi as the fourth largest Biosphere Reserve in the world in 1991. Mongolians consider that there are 33 different Gobi, where sandy desert occupies only 3 percent of the total territory. The area is often imagined as a lifeless desert like in many other parts of the world. Gobi Desert is a land of dinosaurs and it is the home for camel breeders, rich with wildlife and vegetation. Dinosaur skeletons and their petrified eggs have been preserved here to the present day. Wild asses, camels, snow leopards, mountain sheep and gazelles flourish here, as do different types of flora.

Eagle Valley (Yoliin Am)                                    

Gurvansaikhan Mountains are three rocky hills, the highest of which is 2815 metres above sea level. The eagle valley, a protected site in 1965, is 62 kilometres north-west of Dalanzadgad, in the centre of South Gobi aimag’s very wide entrance, it narrows gradually into a remarkable gorge. A spring two or three kilometers long winds its way through the defile and in July, freezes into a thick corridor of ice that stretches along a considerable distance. Following the canyon to the high rock walls has breathtaking dramatic scenery, and no doubt is one of the most beautiful places in the country.

Khongor Sand Dune (Khongoryn Els)                     

This is Mongolia’s largest sand dune, reaching a height of 800 metres in some highest areas. The sand dunes in Sevrei sum, South Gobi aimag, are called Khongoryn Els. These dunes are 20 km wide and 100 km long. The Khongoryn River flows along the sand dunes and gives birth to oases. The sand dunes change colour with each hour of the day, from yellow to silver to rice colored at dawn / sundown. This dune is considered one of the biggest dunes with it is length of 180 km and width of 3-5 km. The dunes make a sound like a plane engine on a windy day and so have been named “Singing Dunes”.

Rich Saxaul /Bayanzag/                                 

One of the most famous places is Bayanzag, a bottom of an Ancient Sea which existed 60-70 million years ago, where a lot of Paleontological findings have been discovered.

The place is known as Flaming Cliffs, so named by Roy Chapman Andrews, an American explorer, who had visited Mongolia in 1920. During the 2 years, he searched through the Mongolian Gobi Desert and he made findings in Bayanzag and Nemegt. He brought his paleontological findings on 70 camels. Chapman presented Mongolia with one large skeleton, on show in the Ulaanbaatar Natural History Museum. He found 10 kinds of dinosaurs of which 8 were found in Mongolia.

Also South Gobi has an oasis and most beautiful mountains, Nemegt, and Altan mountains, and wide steppes and valleys with exotic wild animals like Asian wild ass, black tailed gazelle, and steppe wolf. The Gobi bears which very rare animals can be seen in this area. This is one of the most beautiful places among the 33 Gobies of Mongolia where travellers can see pre-historic rock paintings, caves where monks have made meditations and ruins of ancient temples and villages.

Hermen Tsav

It is a big slope with the length of over 10 kilometres. It is 1000 metres above the sea level and covers an area of 250 sq. km. The slope is nearly 10 km wide and 100-200 metres deep at the end. Supposedly, remains of ancient animals can be found here; however, it has not been studied well. A complete dinosaur skeleton from Mesolithic era, displayed in the Natural History Museum of Mongolia, has been found here.

Mongolian Camel

Mongolia has 2-humped Bactrian camels; it is a domesticated animal of herders. Its wool coat, which is shed in the summer, acts as an insulator in the winter. There are more than 250,000 camels in Mongolia; usually in South Gobi, Middle Gobi, Gobi-Altai, Bayankhongor provinces. South Gobi province has the largest number of camels in Mongolia. Camels are almost an exclusive means of transportation across the Gobi desert and vast steppe. An adult male camel can give up to 18 kg of wool per year. Unlike other livestock, a camel can continuously travel for 30 days without drinking a drop of water.                                                        

We highly recommend you to visit these places as long as you are in Mongolia  . . .

My Host Family Experience

Erika Penner

The past few months living with my hosts, Odno and Ankha, has been an incredibly rewarding and educating experience. In term of its rewards, I have been better taken care of here than back at home. Odno never fails to leave a delicious breakfast waiting for me when I wake up and has always worked hard to accommodate my hectic schedule. I remember how thrilled I was, the first night I arrived, to find that tea, coffee, bread and jam were waiting for me on the counter whenever I should need them. My internal clocks were off that first night and for many nights thereafter, and it was such a relief to have something to snack on when I woke up at 4 in the morning starving (no surprise, since it was lunchtime back in Canada).

 Odno and Ankha have also provided me with a comfortable mix of company and privacy. Back home, I live on my own so I’m used to having a lot of space to myself. I was a bit nervous when I first arrived at my host family’s apartment to find that 4 of us would be living together in the small space. I needn’t have worried. Odno and Ankha have always been careful to give me my privacy, and I’ve always been able to find quiet and refuge in my room when I’ve needed it. I have a lovely soft bed (apparently this is something that Odno and Ankha purchased specifically for volunteers, as Mongolians typically sleep on much harder beds than Westerners are used to), a big window, lots of lovely plants, a TV for when I want to turn my brain off, and lots of space.

In terms of my Mongolian education, Odno has been the perfect teacher. She is, in fact, a teacher of the Mongolian language. When I first arrived, she taught me some key phrases. I wanted to write them down so I wouldn’t forget them, but she wouldn’t let me. Instead, as we walked around and she oriented me to our neighbourhood, she made me repeat the phrases again and again. I’ve never forgotten them, and they’ve come in handy more times than I can count.

I’ve also enjoyed learning about some Mongolian traditions and superstitions which I think I’ll import back to Canada with me. I know now that I mustn’t take out the garbage after dark, as I’ll be inadvertently throwing away my hosts’ good fortune with the trash. Also, it’s important never to give an empty gift. When giving purses or wallets or bags, it’s important to place a token amount of money inside as this brings good luck.

Finally, I have learned about some of the challenges that my host family faces, and that other Mongolian families must face as well. For example, Russia is currently experiencing the worst forest fires in its history and China is having an equally difficult time with mudslides. Mongolia’s dependence on its neighbours for produce has become starkly obvious, with the price of flour rising from 500 T to 800 T virtually overnight. I can’t cook more than canned soup and microwave dinners, so I didn’t realize how drastically this rise in price would affect my host family. I was shocked when Odno told me that cooking for the 4 of us meant going through almost a bag of flour a day, meaning that even a small change in the price of flour represents a substantial financial burden on my host family. It seems the difficulties of Mongolia’s geographical neighbours quickly become the Mongolian people’s difficulties as well.

In the end, I feel incredibly fortunate to have had the privilege of staying with Odno and Ankha. I wish them all of the best, and cannot thank them enough for making me feel so at home.